ICICLE: A Quiet Force in China’s Luxury Fashion Evolution

Jingzhi Brand spotlights the most forward-thinking domestic and global brands shaping China’s jingzhi(精致) landscape. Through in-depth storytelling, we explore innovation, cultural strategy, and market ambition, offering a holistic perspective on the evolving intersection of brand identity and China’s dynamic consumer economy.

Since the 1990s, China has witnessed a golden era of industrial expansion. Amidst this transformation, a new wave of brands, driven by both sharp business acumen and deep cultural identity, began to emerge. These brands have not only navigated shifting market landscapes but have also forged unique philosophies at the intersection of globalization and Chinese heritage.

In the inaugural edition of Jingzhi Brand, we profile ICICLE (known in Chinese as “Zhihe 之禾”), a homegrown fashion brand that has steadily carved out a distinctive path in the luxury apparel sector. In an exclusive conversation, founder, chairman, and CEO Ye Shouzeng shares how ICICLE has balanced self-reinvention with its unwavering commitment to the philosophy of “reverence for nature and mindful resourcefulness.”

 A Brand Born Against the Grain

Founded in 1997, ICICLE entered the market at a pivotal moment when China was completing its first major economic reforms. At the time, efficiency-driven mass production dominated the domestic fashion industry, with Western tailoring and synthetic fabrics holding sway.

Yet, beneath the surface of this industrial boom, a cultural undercurrent was forming. “Young people in the 1990s were yearning for freedom and comfort, and the need for self-expression was quietly building,” Ye recalls. Recognizing this shift, ICICLE took an unconventional approach—prioritizing sustainability, natural fabrics, and effortless wearability.

By the early 2000s, rapid economic growth also brought heightened awareness of environmental issues and a resurgence of cultural confidence among Chinese consumers. This shift fueled the demand for high-quality, conscious fashion. What once seemed a bold, even risky, choice now positioned ICICLE for its golden era. “Looking back, it was both an emotional belief and a rational business decision,” Ye reflects.

The Art of Moving Slow in a Fast Market

As the Chinese fashion industry entered its next wave of development in the mid-2000s, international brands flooded in, and domestic players raced to expand through asset-light operations, outsourcing production for greater speed-to-market. ICICLE, however, took a contrarian path: It chose to slow down.

“Instead of chasing rapid expansion, we focused on strengthening our supply chain,” says Ye. In 2005, the brand strategically decided to establish its own manufacturing network rather than rely on third-party suppliers. This ensured quality control and safeguarded brand independence.

Between 2013 and 2016, ICICLE further solidified its vertical integration by acquiring double-faced wool and knitwear factories in Shanghai and Haimen. “I come from a design background,” Ye explains. “At first, I wasn’t well-versed in manufacturing, but my insistence on product quality made me realize how crucial it was to have control over production.” Today, ICICLE’s manufacturing footprint spans 170,000 square meters, serving as the backbone of its competitive edge.

Embracing Cultural Roots with Subtle Confidence

Despite its meticulous approach to production, ICICLE has never sought to aggressively assert its cultural identity. Instead, its embrace of tradition has been almost instinctual. This philosophy aligns with the Chinese concept of he er bu tong (和而不同)—harmony without uniformity.

“The concept of jingzhi in China, at its core, is about achieving the optimal balance between humans and nature,” says Ye. “Our ancestors understood the importance of reverence for natural resources, ensuring harmony between people and their environment.”

This ethos is distilled into ICICLE’s guiding principles: “reverence for nature, respect for people, and appreciation for materials.” These values are woven into every aspect of the brand—from its reliance on traditional Chinese textiles like Xiangyun silk and ramie to its use of sustainable materials such as Japanese organic silk. ICICLE has long recognized a growing consumer desire for authenticity and a return to nature, shaping its collections to reflect these evolving sensibilities.

Beyond product design, the brand’s commitment extends to its operations. Its industrial park in southwestern Shanghai is more than just a production hub—it doubles as an ecological wetland. The site’s rooftops host a ten-acre vegetable garden that supplies fresh produce to employees, while furniture is crafted from reclaimed wood, left untreated to preserve its natural grain. Even ICICLE’s packaging eschews synthetic materials in favor of biodegradable, undyed cotton bags. These practices serve as tangible manifestations of the brand’s philosophy of mindful resourcefulness.

“Our cultural heritage has instilled in us a reverence for craftsmanship and an ability to create products that withstand time,” Ye says. “It’s heartening to see more consumers embracing designs that return to the essence of clothing. This shift reflects a natural reaction against overconsumption and an instinctive appreciation for true craftsmanship.”

From Local Pioneer to Global Visionary

ICICLE’s consumer base has expanded far beyond the young professionals who first embraced its ethos of comfort and sustainability. Over the past two decades, it has evolved from an emerging label into a benchmark for high-quality Chinese fashion, now offering nine core collections and three capsule lines spanning diverse styles and demographics.

Even as it remains deeply rooted in China, ICICLE has steadily broadened its international presence. In 2012, the brand established a design hub in Paris, drawing on European expertise in fashion, architecture, and communication to refine its aesthetic language. This fusion of Eastern philosophy and Western craftsmanship has allowed ICICLE to create products with both cultural authenticity and global appeal.

Looking ahead, the brand is poised to deepen its international footprint. “Starting in 2025, we will significantly accelerate our overseas expansion,” Ye reveals. “Paris is now our international business headquarters, marking a new chapter in bringing ‘Created in China’ to a wider audience.” Notably, ICICLE debuted on the official Paris Fashion Week schedule in March 2025, a milestone that underscores its growing influence on the world stage.

The Power of a Countercurrent Approach

While many brands have chased fleeting trends, ICICLE has remained steadfast in its commitment to a long-term vision. By prioritizing craftsmanship over speed, authenticity over spectacle, and balance over excess, the brand has carved out a quiet but powerful presence in China’s evolving luxury landscape.

“When we started in 1997, we noticed that many young professionals weren’t drawn to the synthetic fabrics dominating the market,” Ye recalls. “They wanted natural, breathable clothing suitable for work and everyday life. That intersection of passion and practicality became our foundation.”

ICICLE’s journey is a testament to the enduring value of patience and purpose. As it continues to navigate the delicate balance between tradition and modernity, domestic heritage and global ambition, the brand offers a compelling model for the future of Chinese luxury—deeply rooted yet boundless in reach.