Lieve Declercq on Proya’s Vision for Skin Longevity

This article was originally published by BeautyMatter China and is republished here as part of a content-sharing partnership with Jingzhi Chronicle.

In 2024, Proya became the first Chinese beauty company to surpass RMB 10 billion (roughly $1.5 billion) in annual revenue, reaching RMB 10.778 billion—a milestone demonstrating its leadership in the domestic beauty industry.

As the industry front-runner, the brand recognizes that innovation in R&D is crucial to sustaining long-term competitiveness.

According to its most recent financial report, Proya’s R&D spending recorded double-digit growth for the third consecutive year, with a 21.21 percent year-on-year increase in 2024, reaching RMB 210 million. A highlight of this investment is the establishment of the Proya European Innovation Center in October 2024, located in La Défense, the premier business district in the Paris metropolitan area. The Center focuses on key research areas, including anti-aging, sensitive skin care, and skin brightening, bolstering Proya’s R&D framework with an international outlook and cutting-edge technological vision.

At the helm of the European Innovation Center is Dr. Lieve Declercq, Proya’s Chief Scientific Advisor and Vice President of the Center. With a doctorate in Biochemistry and Molecular Biology, Dr. Declercq has held senior R&D positions at leading global beauty companies such as Estée Lauder, accumulating over 30 years of experience in cosmetic innovation and management. Her research has been published in more than 40 peer-reviewed scientific journals, and she holds over 50 international patents.

As competition in the beauty and skincare industry intensifies, the battleground has shifted to skin longevity. In this exclusive interview, BeautyMatter speaks with Dr. Declercq to explore how Proya is charting a long-term path toward the wellness phenomenon and the evolving science behind it. 

1. Why do you think the concept of skin longevity is resonating so strongly with today’s consumers? What unmet needs does it address in the beauty market?

The concept of skin longevity aligns very well with a broader holistic trend towards health and overall wellness. Skin longevity emphasizes maintaining the skin’s health and functionality over time. The desire is to look and feel healthy and vital at any age, rather than fighting the signs of aging. 

Skin longevity is, therefore, a form of skin positivity. It is based on an emotional driving force: the desire for the dual benefits of skin health and beauty, because healthy skin naturally appears more youthful and radiant. Skin longevity solutions should promote skin vitality and resistance, as well as youthful radiance.      

• From a scientific perspective, which ingredients or technologies currently hold the most promise in extending skin health and longevity?

Over the past 20 years, we have made significant strides in understanding how skin biology and the molecular mechanisms of longevity are influenced by both genetics and lifestyle factors. We now know that promoting skin vitality and resistance can be achieved through technologies that target the key hallmarks of aging, as recently described in the scientific literature.^[1]

Some of the most promising approaches to achieving skin longevity involve inhibiting and clearing damage to the skin as a first protective layer. This consists of a combination of sun protection with an effective antioxidant and antiglycation defense strategy. Another is improving cellular metabolism and mitochondrial dynamics. Mitochondrial health plays a crucial role in maintaining skin homeostasis and energy production. The modulation of mitochondrial dynamics and quality control is a promising strategy in addressing age-related deficiencies. 

(Another approach) is reversing or removing senescent cells. The role of senescent cells, which stop dividing and accumulate with age, has been identified as a key factor in skin aging. These cells not only stop functioning, they also release inflammatory factors that can damage the surrounding cells. And finally, there’s protecting the stem cell niche and restoring stem cell functionality. Advances in stem cell research have shown potential for regenerating damaged skin and promoting youthful skin characteristics.      

• How is Proya positioning itself in the skin longevity space? Which specific products or research initiatives under development align with this concept?

For years, Proya has positioned technological innovation as its core driver, while empowering women to stay young and feel adventurous. Skin longevity solutions focus on early intervention and maintaining skin health in order to delay the onset of aging signs. 

Some examples include targeting a young consumer. Proya has recently developed a groundbreaking triple anti-oxidation and anti-glycation system for the Double Effect Whitening Brightening Essence 4.0, demonstrating efficacy in promoting a youthful skin tone, radiance, firmness, and elasticity.

Targeting a consumer with sensitive or damaged skin, Proya has introduced the Original Repair Essence 3.0, featuring technology that restores the integrity of the dermo-epidermal junction and maintains epidermal stem cell homeostasis. Other research initiatives are focusing on mitochondrial health and senescence.   

• How is Proya communicating the concept of skin longevity to Chinese consumers, particularly given that the term can carry different cultural connotations?

This skin longevity trend is a global one, with some differences in how Europe and Asia, particularly China, approach longevity from a cultural point of view. In Europe, the beauty industry primarily targets an aging consumer in a mature market, where skin longevity means maintaining a healthy and vital appearance for as long as possible. 

In China, we are addressing a younger consumer, mainly through online channels. This consumer is seeking proactive health solutions, deeply rooted in scientific innovation. She wants to know exactly what the product does and how it works in order to maintain a youthful appearance. 

Instead of waiting for signs of aging to appear, she looks for preventive measures with visible results. 

Across the different brands, Proya has been very strategic in promoting skin health and longevity, particularly among younger consumers. Proya communicates the science behind the products and professional skin mechanism research, providing detailed information on the mechanism of action of key ingredients and product benefits. 

Collaborations with popular KOLs and content-led campaigns help the brand reach its target audiences and promote positive messages about skin and mental health. 

• Beyond skincare, do you foresee the skin longevity narrative extending to other categories, such as supplements or beauty devices?

Yes, definitely. The longevity research community is making great progress at targeting aging at the cellular level, and the regenerative wellness economy is thriving. These approaches naturally spill over into solutions that could promote skin longevity and rejuvenation as a complement to the traditional “creams and lotions.” Non-invasive home-use beauty devices are rapidly gaining traction, especially in Asia. Several supplements with antioxidant benefits or boosters of mitochondrial health look promising for promoting skin longevity by supporting overall health and combating the effects of aging. The increasing adoption of AI to develop more targeted and personalized solutions is expected to fuel broader technological innovation in the longevity space. 

^[1] Lopez-Otin et al, 2023: Hallmarks of aging: an expanding universe.